Angelo’s Fine Italian
Heart, nostalgia, and a genuine appreciation for the classics. These are just a few of the qualities that come to mind when we think about Angelo's Fine Italian. We had the pleasure of being invited to experience the restaurant during its friends-and-family preview ahead of its official opening to the public this evening. Knowing that Chef Cory Barberio and Chef Jared Gadbaw were bringing their talents together, we knew the quality of the ingredients would be unquestionable and the execution exceptional.
Does Detroit have an abundance of Italian restaurants? Absolutely. But at a past event, we had a conversation with Chef Cory, he made a point of telling us that Angelo's Fine Italian is "not just another Italian restaurant." After experiencing the menu, we understand exactly what he meant. Angelo's embraces the traditions of classic Italian-American cooking, particularly the red-sauce dishes that evoke memories of family gatherings and Sunday suppers, while approaching them with the technical precision and attention to detail that distinguish exceptional chefs. There is nothing pretentious about the concept, and that is precisely what makes it so appealing. The atmosphere is relaxed, the food is approachable, and the menu celebrates familiar favorites.
What we particularly appreciate is that Angelo's Fine Italian does not confuse simplicity with a lack of sophistication. Italian cuisine has always been rooted in respecting ingredients, understanding balance, and allowing individual flavors to speak for themselves. Angelo's Fine Italian reminds people just how wonderful the classics can be when they are prepared exceptionally well.
We typically write about how dishes complement one another throughout a meal, but since our goal was to experience as much of the menu as possible, we thought we would share our impressions of each.
Housemade Focaccia
Naturally, we ordered every snack on the menu. If you love the focaccia at Oak & Reel, you will undoubtedly appreciate Angelo's version. This is a collaboration between talented chefs, not a copy-and-paste exercise, and the focaccia has its own identity. Served with confit garlic and parsley butter, it was so good that we had to stop Carmine from ordering another.
Smoked Whitefish Dip
Michigan is known for smoked whitefish dip, and we loved this preperation. The addition of banana peppers and green olives, which introduce acidity and brininess that we love. Equally important is the sesame semolina served alongside it, because as anyone who appreciates a well-composed dish knows, the bread matters just as much as what you put on it. If you are hosting friends and want to serve something beyond the usual appetizers, this would make an excellent carryout shortcut.
Eggplant Parm Bites
Anyone who has been following Detroit's culinary scene may have already enjoyed a preview of these Eggplant Parm Bites at one of the many events where Chef Cory has been cooking. We certainly had, and we were delighted to see them find a permanent home at Angelo's. Eggplant Parmesan is a beloved Italian-American classic, but it can also be an incredibly substantial dish, particularly when the eggplant becomes lost beneath layers of breading, sauce, and cheese. Angelo's Fine Italian has taken everything comforting about the original and transformed it into a perfectly proportioned bite. The exterior is beautifully crisp without being heavy, while the tender eggplant, basil aioli, and Pecorino Romano provide all the familiar flavors we associate with a great eggplant Parmesan. It is a clever interpretation that preserves the soul of the dish while making it considerably easier to enjoy alongside the rest of your meal.
Crispy Stuffed Shells
Back to the red-sauce classics, Angelo's Crispy Stuffed Shells are essentially mozzarella sticks for the more sophisticated palate, although Emma would strongly object to that comparison. For kids who have grown up appreciating good food, this is exactly the kind of dish that proves familiar childhood favorites can be just as appealing when prepared with a little more culinary finesse. The crisp exterior gives way to smoked mozzarella, while the pizza spice brings all those familiar Italian-American flavors together. What makes this dish so successful is that it doesn't try to be anything other than what it is: a wonderfully comforting classic, executed exceptionally well. We have a feeling these will quickly become a family favorite, equally appreciated by kids and adults alike.
Hand-Pulled Mozzarella
Fresh mozzarella is one of those ingredients we have always appreciated because there is nowhere for mistakes to hide. We learned that Chef Cory spent considerable time refining his mozzarella until he was satisfied it was worthy of the Angelo's menu, and that dedication certainly comes through in the finished product. The mozzarella was delicious, with just the right amount of salt to enhance its delicate flavor. Although the dish is traditionally served with Prosciutto di Parma, the kitchen accommodated our modification, allowing us to enjoy the mozzarella without one of its principal accompaniments. We loved it so much that we ordered another serving, which says quite a bit about the quality of the cheese itself.
Small Plates
Scarola
Our first thought when tasting the Scarola was Italian kimchi. We loved the combination of hearty braised greens and the acidity of the pickled peppers, which gave this traditional Italian dish an unexpected and delicious twist.
Artichoke Oreganato
If you are familiar with the artichokes at Oak & Reel, don't expect a copy-and-paste preparation. Angelo's has given this Italian classic its own identity, and the result is exceptional. Simply put, the artichokes deserve a place on your table every time you visit.
No Italian-American dining experience would be complete without pasta, and at Angelo's Fine Italian, the pastas are served family-style. We tried three.
Stuffed Pappardelle
The Stuffed Pappardelle is simply beautiful. Filled with ricotta and finished with toasted hazelnuts and aged balsamic. It is everything we love about a comforting cheese-filled pasta, and the hazenuts made this extra specual and the perfect texture to compliment the ricotta.
Squid Ink Spaghetti
Emma is currently in her squid ink era, so naturally, this was a must for our table. Emma loved it, such a beautiful dish featuring such luxurious ingredients feel entirely at home on a relaxed Italian-American menu.
Tiramisu
When eating homey Italian tiramisu is a must. There is nothing more disappointing than finishing a beautiful Italian meal with a tiramisu that has been completely overwhelmed by oversoaked ladyfingers or a mascarpone mixture that is unnecessarily heavy. Everyone seems to have an opinion about what makes the perfect tiramisu, which is precisely why it can be such a difficult dessert to execute well. Their tiramisu was a wonderful conclusion to our evening and exactly what we hoped for from a restaurant that places so much emphasis on honoring the classics.
We can easily imagine Angelo's becoming one of those restaurants that generations of Detroit families grow up visiting. The kind of place where children develop favorite dishes, where families return for celebrations, and where years later those same children bring their own families back, remembering the stuffed shells they loved growing up or the pasta everyone insisted on ordering for the table. There is something special about restaurants that become part of a family's history, and we believe Angelo's has all the ingredients to establish that kind of lasting connection with Detroit's dining community.
Congratulations to Chef Cory Barberio, Chef Jared Gadbaw, and the entire Angelo's Fine Italian team on the opening of your restaurant. Thank you for including our family in your friends-and-family preview. We look forward to watching Angelo's become part of Detroit's dining story and, hopefully, a favorite gathering place for generations to come.
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